“I can’t get the pump-out thingie to work an’ we’re outta block ice,” the dock attendant said, wiping his hands on a dirty rag. He has a sorry look on his young face.
“I thought you called ahead,” the XO said, looking at me.
“Yeah. I did. They said they had fuel, a pump-out facility, and block ice. One stop shopping.” Unfortunately I bought eighty gallons of diesel before I find out about the broken pump-out. Ah well. I tip the dock boy and we shove off. We get the block ice next door at Crosby’s, and by radio, I make arrangements to meet the Harbormaster’s pump-out boat at an unused mooring in the North Bay channel. She wasn’t surprised to hear about our problems at the fuel dock. “The just don’t like to pump out boats,” is all she said about the matter.
So with our fuel tanks full, holding tanks empty, and many blocks of ice in the chests, we say good-bye to sweet Osterville and head three nautical miles southwest around Succonnesset Point, then due west another three.

Good bye Osterville.

The last time I was in Waqouit Bay a couple of years ago, I had proclaimed it “the best place on earth,” or something like that. Set a bar that high and you’re bound to be disappointed right? Not today. It’s as beautiful as I remember it. More lovely than ever. An old clammer tosses us a friendly wave as we motor slowly through the breakwater and into a world of blue skies, lush green foliage, and warm gentle breezes.It must be a weekday; I don’t see the usual water-skiers and tubers disturbing the glass-like waters. Only Osprey and various wading birds greet us. The depth sounder reads five feet as we follow the private aids northward and tuck Ginger Lee behind a sand spit.There are no amenities here, no restaurants, no slips for rent, no fuel dock. We had to bike several miles to find Waquoit village, which consisted of a Cumberland Farms, post office, pizza shop, and of all things, a shoe store.

Solitude.

We are completely alone. So alone that we have no reservations about sunbathing completely naked on the fore-deck. No doubt the coming weekend will bring more boaters here. But today, the solitude washes over us in pleasant waves. We float on our deserted island; the sun warms us; the birds entertain us; we want for nothing except our own company. Right now, at this very moment, this is truly the best place on earth.