It’s wicked hard to leave Marblehead, especially on such a bright sunny morning. But off we go to another new port: Gloucester. With a fishing vessel as our guide out of the harbor, I take one last opportunity to soak in the beauty.

Good-bye Marblehead.

Today’s trip is not far, less than 20 nautical miles along the scenic coasts of Salem and Manchester, Massachusetts.

Marblehead to Gloucester.

Cape Ann castle.

Upon entering Gloucester Harbor, the sights, sounds, and smells of a major fisherman’s port assault us. It’s so very different from the idyllic harbor we just left. There isn’t a pleasure craft in sight. Every vessel docked, moored, or cruising seems to be built for one purpose only. Catching seafood and the support of boats catching seafood is all that matters here, and has been for centuries. No fancy houses or mansions line the shore. There’s no room for them, no use for them. This is a pure working harbor. As pure as any. More so than New Bedford. But that is where Gloucester’s beauty lies. There is nothing quite like it. We are both awestruck. And the gulls, so many gulls, their chatter a constant reminder of where we are. We rented a mooring from Browns Yacht Yard, and even though they told us the mooring number, we cant seem to find it, so I guess the first stop is their fuel dock for directions.

Might as well fuel up while we’re here.

The staff is friendly. The whole place just oozes New England charm.

I love places like this.

Just a stones throw away from the fuel dock, we find our mooring tucked between the North and South Channels. And it’s in a no-wake zone! That’s key in this busy harbor. I don’t know how we missed it the first time.

Ginger Lee making friends with the working boats.

The harbors of Marblehead and Gloucester couldn’t be more different, but they both have tremendous appeal. We have lots of exploring to do and plenty of time to do it. So for now, we will hang out here on Ginger Lee, cook up a light dinner, uncork a bottle of Cabernet, and let the darkness slowly wash over us. Tomorrow’s another day. I can’t wait!

Gloucester sunset.

Sunrise in Marblehead Harbor. The dawn of yet another beautiful day. I’m thinking about our lawn back home in Wareham, and how crispy it must be. The hanging plants and window boxes too. The lack of rain must be hard on them. Meanwhile, back on the boat, I’m lovin’ the sunshine.

With a boat-hook, I chase a gull off the fly-bridge roof, but he soon returns with a friend and they both settle onto the warm, black, Sunbrella fabric. I can’t have that. I don’t dislike the gulls, it’s their poop I hate. So it’s time to put up the Gull-Sweeps, so-called because they spin in the breeze and literally sweep the gulls away. We have three of them to protect the 10 square-foot area.

Ginger Lee with Gull-Sweeps installed.

Apparently, I’m not the only one awake at this early hour. Two working fishermen dinghy up to their boat and start messing about with their gear. I can see they’re busy, so I suppress the urge to ask them where they’re headed, and simply toss them a friendly wave and leave it at that. In return, they wish me good morning and go about their business.

Working fishermen.

After breakfast, The XO and I plan to go ashore for a walk and some much-needed provisions. I prepare a shopping list. We’re out of everything.

The shopping list.

The waterfront area is beautiful and quaint. With its brick sidewalks and narrow winding streets, it reminds me of the Beacon Hill section of Boston.We find the supermarket at the bottom of a hill, and as luck would have it, it’s pretty close to the dinghy dock, so I’ll be able to stock up on beer as well.

Crosby’s Market dead ahead.

After washing our clothes and taking showers in the cleanest facility I’ve ever seen, we return to the boat and kick back on the aft-deck to enjoy the warm afternoon.

Relaxing on the aft-deck.

A huge ship enters the harbor.
“Where the heck is that thing going?” I ask aloud. “It’s way too big for this harbor.”
I turn on the AIS and read the stats. “Renaissance” is a 116 foot fiberglass pleasure craft with a 23 foot beam, 6.1 foot draft, and flagged for The United States. Currently underway at 1.2 MPH at a distance of half a mile.
According to Active Captain (the on-line cruising guide) the largest boat previously accommodated in this harbor is only 80 feet. This is gonna be interesting.

The behemoth is slowly advancing toward us. Boaters stop and stare, jaws drop, everyone is oohing and ahhing. A crew of four Harbormasters are scrambling about the utility dock in front of their office.
“Jeez! I think they’re gonna put it on the Harbormasters dock,” I say. Sure enough, Renaissance pulls up, and is tied to the little dock.

M/V Renaissance docked near us. The Riva dinghy tied on the side costs more than our house.

This is pretty exciting. Binoculars are glued to our eyeballs. On the top deck, there is what looks like a family sitting around a table. Two young ladies, identically dressed in navy blue shirts and khaki shorts, are fussing about with silver trays of food.
“Dinner is served,” I say in my English butler’s accent.
“It’s a gold-digging husband and his over-the-hill Hollywood actress wife,” I continue.
“And their sullen teenager,” the XO says, describing the girl in the dark hoodie who is staring at her phone.
“His daughter from another failed marriage. Look. There’s a baby. Obviously the teens illegitimate child.” I offer.
“From a wealthy rapper.”
“From Justin Bieber,” I surmise.
“And the elderly man?”
“The patriarch of the family. He killed his wife for her money. Made it look like an accident.”
“Anti-freeze?”
“Pushed her down the stairs. It’s quicker.”
In no time at all we have the whole family story worked out. We made it all up of course. But it could be true!

The XO googles the boat’s name, and discovers that anybody can rent Renaissance for a mere 85 thousand dollars a week. Quite the bargain right? Nope. Here’s the kicker. It doesn’t include food or fuel! Well the heck with that. I’m cancelling my reservation! All kidding aside, I’m happy right where I am, hanging out with my cool wife, and enjoying life in our own little boat.